Welcome to the Official

Food Across Borders



Food Across Borders will make important conceptual and theoretical interventions that include and transcend consideration of the physical borders that connect, divide, and regulate food and food worker movements across North America. We seek to overcome generalizations about the ills of a globalized food system and the uncritical valorization of local producers to understand the history and possible futures for food production in a modern world.
Some believe protectionism and restrictions against the importation of certain foods will contribute to a healthier planet. We, on the other hand, have chosen to be cognizant of the role fermentation, the mixing of cuisines, and the movement of food and food producers has played in the creation of our complex food cultures.


People who cross borders make our meals possible.


Agreements among nations define how and what we eat.


Military conquests and wartime necessities determines our food choices.


Choosing what we eat is a boundary that everyone negotiates.


This book was made possible by support from the Clements Center for Southwest Studies at Southern Methodist University and Comparative Border Studies at Arizona State University.
Matt Garcia of Dartmouth College, Melanie DuPuis of Pace University, and Don Mitchell of Uppsala University in Sweden.
12 contributors at various stages of their careers from many places around the country and beyond


Photos from our two symposia in Taos, New Mexico and Scottsdale, Arizona, and maps illustrating the geography of food and borders

Book preview

Access to the table of contents and the full introduction, written by Matt Garcia, Melanie DuPuis, and Don Mitchell

Food Across Borders


  1. Introduction, Melanie DuPuis, Matt Garcia & Don Mitchell

PART 1 – Preparing

  1. Afro-Latina/os’ Culinary Subjectivities: Rooting Ethnicities through Root Vegetables, Meredith E. Arbaca
  2. “Mexican Cookery that Belongs to the United States”: The Boundaries of Whiteness and Citizenship in New Mexican Kitchens, Katherine Massoth
  3. “Cooking Mexican” in the United States: Operational Processes and Negotiating the Sazón in Family-Owned and Small-Scale Mexican Restaurants in the United States, José Antonio Vásquez-Medina

PART 2 – Procuring

  1. “Chasing the Yum”: Food Procurement and Thai American Community Formation in an Era Before Free Trade, Tanachai Mark Padoongpatt
  2. Crossing Chiles, Crossing Borders: Dr. Fabian Garcia, the New Mexican Chile Pepper, and Modernity in the Early Twentieth-Century US-Mexico Borderlands, William Carleton
  3. Constructing Borderless Foods: The Quartermaster Corps and World War II Army Subsistence, Kelllen Backer

PART 3 – Provisioning

  1. Bittersweet: Food, Gender & the State in the U.S. & Canadian Wests During World War I, Mary Murphy
  2. The Place that Feeds You: Allotment and the Struggle for Blackfeet Food Sovereignty, Michael Wise
  3. Eating Far From Home: Latino/a Workers and Food Sovereignty in Rural Vermont, Teresa M. Mares, Naomi Walcott-MacCausland & Jessie Mazar

Part 4 – Producing

  1. Milking Networks for All They’re Worth: Precarious Migrant Life and the Process of Consent on New York Dairies, Kathleen Sexsmith
  2. Crossing Borders, Overcoming Boundaries: Latino Immigrant Farmers And a New Sense of Home in The United States, Laura-Anne Minkoff-Zern
  3. (Re)Producing Ethnic Difference: Solidarity Trade, Indigeneity, and Colonialism in the Global Quinoa Boom, Marygold Walsh-Dilley
  1. Conclusion/Afterword, Melanie DuPuis, Matt Garcia & Don Mitchell

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“A ‘Taco Truck on Every Corner’? Well-organized and well-written, Food Across Borders takes a broad inter-ethnic, transnational, and transhemispheric approach to its subject. The book is a welcome reminder and fresh interpretation of the central role that food plays in American politics and society at every level from production to consumption.”

—José M. Alamillo, author of Making Lemonade out of Lemons: Mexican American Labor and
Leisure in a California Town ”

“This important volume reminds us that eating necessarily involves the movement of foodstuffs, meanings, and bodies across borders, both intimate and geopolitical, and that ‘building a wall’ is no solution.”

— Julie Guthman, author of Agrarian Dreams: The Paradox of Organic Farming in California

“Food is a great way to understand what borders do: the bodily, societal, cultural, and territorial transformations that occur as physical sustenance flows across, or stops at, a boundary.”

-Matt Garcia


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